Oh, the Places We'll Go

Soccer, right?  Well maybe, but equally as popular as the world´s game is an Ecuadorian version of volleyball: EcuaVolley.  And it is everywhere in this country.  Courts are in every park, in every town – way more prevelant than soccer fields.   It´s similar to volleyball as we know it, but with a few important differences:

• Generally played on cement courts with a soccer ball
• 3 on 3
• Higher nets, preventing most players from spiking the ball (Ecuadorians aren’t the tallest people)
• A much more liberal touch time for each contact with the ball

When we first witnessed the game, I thought everyone was cheating – you can’t palm the ball in volleyball!  Well, in EcuaVolley, you can.  There are some talented players down here, and games we witnessed got competitive and heated.

Ceviche on the beach!  Who´d of thought you could get semi-raw seafood out of a tricycle cart while sunbathing.

Delicious!

Door lock (in rural Ecuador)

Whale watching in Montanita!

Venga pescado!  Venga pescado!  Yup, that’s right, this truck is driving around selling fish.  Direct to your door (or just passing you walking down the street).  There is a megaphone on top of the truck, a cooler in the back, and all the trucha (trout, farm raised) that you could possibly want.

This one has a bit larger variety.  He’s got fruit, snack food, soda, and…fish!  These guys drive around rural villages, blaring their inventory over the megaphone.  Considering most people have to travel 1-4 hours by bus to make it to the local market to purchase food, it’s a pretty brilliant business model.  I continue to be impressed by the entrepreneurship of the Ecuadorians.

This shot, captured at Lake Quilotoa, was taken by our new friend, Matt.  We were hiking along the rim of this volcanic crater lake, when a herd of sheep, a few donkeys, dogs, and indigenous women came cruising by.  More photos from this hike coming up soon.

Ok, this post is a bit out of order. In the whirlwind of packing, prepping, and diving into this trip, I’ve gotten a little behind… Here is why our departure was so nuts and so fun:

July 14-28: Two weeks in Michigan. Amazing times – our first nephew is born (welcome Gavin Benjamin Martens!), quality time with the families in Ann Arbor and northern Michigan, Cottage Weekend, etc.

July 29-31: Move out. Everything into storage or friends’ basements/garages. Note to self – moving takes longer than you think it will, even with the help of friends and family. Trying to work during moving is also difficult.

Aug 3: Last work day for nearly a year! Amazingly good feeling, except that I wasn’t done with work obligations yet (and won’t finish until after week 1 in Ecuador).

Aug 4: Work and pack. Work and pack. Tie up loose ends.

Aug 5-8 : The world trip begins in Colorado. First, we drive to Durango where we head into the Weminuche Wilderness area for some backpacking in the Chicago Basin. Having not had the opportunity to get into the backcountry at all this summer, we had to squeeze in at least one trip before taking off! This was a special one – the Chicago Basin is one of the most amazing landscapes in all of Colorado, and it’s only accessible by the Durango-Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad (or by adding an extra day of hiking in).  The DSNGR ride is an experience in itself. Operating continuously since 1887, this steam engine used to provide access to the mines in the Weimenuche region. Today, it’s a tourist attraction and super-cool backcountry access vehicle.

After a 2.5 hour train ride, we arrived at the trailhead, which led us up to the Chicago Basin over 6 fairly steep miles. The Basin, surrounded by three 14,000ft peaks, was as majestic and picturesque as we had hoped. On day two, we slugged our way to the top of our 4^th 14er, Mt. Windom.

The unexpected excitement of the trip was our regular and very close interaction with a few families of mountain goats. The Chicago Basin is very highly visited, and the mountain goat population has grown fond of the delicious salty clothing and urine of these frequent visitors. We knew of this issue before arriving, but somehow, we managed to choose the campsite that intersected their daily migration patterns, and they took a liking to us. These guys had no qualms in coming as close as 5 feet from our sitting position, and would occasionally let us know that we were unwelcome guests by marking their territory while looking in our direction.  Fortunately, we made it out without incident, and now it makes for a good story.

Aug 9-10: Telluride. For the 3^rd time in 2010, I had the opportunity to visit Colorado’s most picturesque town. This time, it was to see two nights of my favorite band, Phish, and they rocked that box canyon. Joined by great friends in the best live music venue around, it was a killer way to kick off our big adventure.

Aug 11-13: Pack and work. Goodbye happy hours and parties. Way too much to do before leaving…

Aug 13: Our final night in Colorado, and one hell of a goodbye party and show. Despite a lengthy break from the previous performance, Zen Mustache members all brought their A-game, and we played a rockin show. Aside from friends and family, I will miss playing music with these guys more than anything else.

Aug 14: Without sleeping a wink after the show (and running a 4:30am last-ditch attempt to find our vaccination cards (unsuccessfully), we head to the airport at 6am. The adventure begins…

Growing up in a decent sized city, there are many aspects of rural life that I have not experienced. Spending two weeks among poor, rural, Ecuadorian communities has been an eye-opening experience on many levels, and my respect for people who are truly living off the land has grown significantly. But nothing has been more inspiring than the genuine sense of community that permeates through the pueblos and small towns we’ve visited. Favors are exchanged on a daily basis, and people collectively make decisions that are (generally) in the best interests of the whole.

Nowhere is this neighborly commitment and connection more apparent than in Mingas – community work days. Projects span the spectrum from building homes for people in need or painting the community center, to fixing the town water system or constructing community gardens. The town council votes on projects that are most necessary to the community, and one Saturday a month (sometimes more often, other times less frequent), the town gathers and works to complete the project at hand.

During our time in Pucara, we had the opportunity to participate in a Minga, constructing a wall around the local cemetery (not exactly our idea of the most valuable community project, but an important initiative for this very catholic society). This was our first experience with volunteer tourism, and it was hard work. But, when you witness the level of participation from all sorts of people, you can’t help but want to contribute. Kids, adults, teenagers, elderly, men and women are all involved in some form, from mixing concrete (a much more laborious process without cement mixers), carrying rocks, raking land, or preparing food for the workers. The workday (well, work ½ day) ended with a big meal for everyone involved.

I’m not familiar with a similar tradition in the US, but we could certainly use it. The concept of donating one’s time for the greater good of your town, regardless of whether you directly benefit from the project, is an inspiring demonstration of neighborliness and good will. I’m certain that some people at our Minga thought a cemetery wall was a waste of their time. But they were there contributing anyway because that’s what the community asked for. Next month, the Minga project might bring an irrigation system to their farms.

During our time in Pucara, we had the amazing opportunity to visit one of the more successful community economic development projects in the region – the Intag Coffee Cooperative.  The Intag valley, a gorgeous mountain landscape northwest of Quito, is home to one of the most biodiverse zones in all of Ecuador (and all of the world – it’s said to be one of the 10 most biodiverse regions on the planet, due to its extreme elevation change – sea level to 11,000 ft in only a couple dozen miles).  In addition to its one-of-a-kind forests, flora, and fauna, the region is also home to a wealth of valuable minerals and ores beneath its lush surface.  A number of mining companies are in pursuit of digging rights, and many locals are tempted by the short-term financial returns promised by the mining companies.  Without a financially viable alternative, the region is doomed to be exploited and destroyed by the mining industry.

Step in Asociacion Rio Intag, a group of coffee farmers and producers dedicated to preserving the Intag landscape through local and sustainable economic development.   A fair-trade cooperative based out of Apuela, member farmers are producing organic coffee for distribution within and beyond Ecuadorian borders.  The group of over 100 local farmers are very vocal about their mission – growing and manufacturing top-quality, organic, fair-trade coffee to support traditional and sustainable farming in the Intag region, providing economic benefits to local people while preventing the destruction of their landscape by proposed mining activities.

Our friend Peter Shear is one of the local growers, and is heavily involved in sustainable agriculture education (among many other things).  He gave us a tour of the Cafe Rio Intag production facility, which was fascinating to say the least.  The tour took us from the coffee plants in Peter’s farm, to the bean extraction, drying, sizing, sorting (did you know that every coffee bean you’ve ever consumed has been hand-sorted!?!), grinding, and tasting. 

The Association also has a research division with university-trained agronomists who are testing all-natural pesticides in laboratories and in the field (a project funded by USAID).

The Co-op is thriving, with demand exceeding their current supply (50% of the coffee is currently purchased by 1 buyer in Japan, the remaining 50% is sold locally and in select markets in North America and Europe).  Co-op members are looking to expand their capacity by adding additional farmers into the organization (in order to qualify, new farmers must undergo a detailed audit process, demonstrating their avoidance of banned chemicals and eventually resulting in certified organic status).

The Intag Valley (and most of rural Ecuador) is faced with a growing number of challenges in an increasingly globalized economy.  With the majority of the younger working class fleeing traditional farming for greater financial opportunities in urban areas, Intag residents face an uncertain future.  While the proposed mining project would bring short-term returns to these poor regions (local jobs, mining subsidies, etc), the long-term environmental impacts would be disastrous.  The Intag Coffee Cooperative is one example of a successful alternative sustainable economic development model that could bring similar benefits to the local population.  But it’s going to take a lot more than coffee to beat the mines.

Here, we begin a set of posts dedicated to the funny, interesting, crazy, and outrageous ways of life we encounter along the road.

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