• 4 – Months we spent in South America
• 68 – Number of beds we slept in
• 5 – Countries Visited

• 12 – Number of friends and family visited (Two of them in two different locations!)
• 24 – Number of deeply discounted or comp’d hotel nights through Ted’s tourism connections
• $6460 – Value of comp’d tourism industry activities through Ted’s tourism connections
• 6 – Number of overnight buses (2 in Bolivia, 4 in Argentina)
• 182.5 – Number of hours on a bus (that’s 7.6 full days on a bus)
• 1 – Number of computers stolen
• 2783 – Number of photos taken (and kept)
• 7 – Number of flights
• 1 – Number of big ships

South America well exceeded our expectations, and we’re on the hunt for ways we can get back for an extended period of time down the road.  Check out our Best Of pics from Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Argentina, and Chile for some highlights.

And what happens when you don’t have smaller bills? You don’t get to buy what you want to buy. That’s right, on multiple occasions, I have been told that a store owner would rather not sell me a product than give me the change required for the bills I am presenting. A small example – along the Ecuadorian coast, I was thirsty for a Coke. I walked in to a small store where a 500ml (20oz) bottle of coke was for sale for US$0.50 (Ecuador’s currency is the US dollar). I had no change and no single bills, so I handed her a US$5 (not a $50, or a $20, or even a $10, but a $5!). Nope, no change, no Coke for me. This is not uncommon.

And the kicker…THEY HAVE THE CHANGE (most of the time) – they just don’t want to jeopardize their ability to make change in the future! Well, two can play at this game. It’s most fun to force the change out of your service providers. This works best when you have already consumed the products they are selling. I’ve had hotels tell me they don’t have change for my bigger bills, but since I’ve already stayed at their property, miraculously, change for my 100 Soles appears from the drawer after denying its existence just minutes prior. I’ve also gotten quite good at denying my ability to make change, even when I have it. Often time a store will request small change on top of your bill so they can give you a bigger bill back. For instance, if my lunch costs 56 Bolivianos, and I pay with a 100, they’ll ask for 6 Bs so they can give me a 50 back. Little do they know that I have 56 Bs exactly, but I am using a 100 so I can hold on to that precious 6 in change (and to make more change to be used later). AND, since I already ate their food, they somehow or other find a way to break that 100 after all.

Who would have thought that a $1 could be more valuable than a $10 bill, when you need the change?

Community Tourism – Worth the Dirt?

WORLDWIDE | Monday, 20 September 2010 | Views [342]

Community-based tourism, a now popular buzzword among backpackers and eco-travelers, touts a more “authentic” experience, placing you in lives of local people in rural communities.  In theory, it sounds great – eat, learn, interact, play, work, and live with the people indigenous to the areas you’re exploring (a rare opportunity along the beaten path).  AND, know that your visit is benefiting these communities, often in dire straits for some form of sustainable economic opportunities.  For the intrepid, adventurous, and tolerant traveler, this can all be true.  But for many backpackers, community tourism is dirty, difficult, and down-right uncomfortable.  Sound like something you´d like to try?  Consider the following factors:

• Not all community tourism is the same.  Some communities simply clear out a bedroom for your visit, add another portion to their food preparation, and treat you as one of the family.  Others have built separate living quarters, complete with Westerner amenities like hot water, enclosed roofs, and private bathrooms (often times, these hosts have been instructed on Western culture, norms, and expectations).  Before you dive into a community visit, determine what type of facilities are made available, and ensure that you’re comfortable with what’s being offered.
• Did you like going to summer camp when you were younger?  Community tourism is nothing like summer camp, but if you still dislike the thought of bunk beds in a rustic, dirty, buggy cabin, then you likely won´t enjoy your digs with the host family.  Remember, most of these families live in rural, poor areas, existing on less that US$2/day.  Homes can be very basic, and often living in close contact with nature.  If being dirty still sounds like fun, then keep reading.
• How are your non-verbal communication skills?  Likely, English is not spoken by anyone in these rural areas.  So, unless you speak the local language, you´re going to be signing your way through your request for more chicken or less rice.  For many, this is a welcome challenge – it´s amazing how much can be communicated by pointing and a smile.
• Are you ready to immerse yourself in someone else’s lives?  There are many challenges involved – eating unfamiliar foods, adjusting to the local schedule, living among the chickens and roosters (who, by the way, cock-a-doodle-doo WAY before dawn), walking miles for basic necessities, etc.  However, the rewards can be rich, educational, and inspiring – it’s extremely rare to have such a first-hand view of the lives of people so different than you, culturally, economically, and personally.  My hosts have been among the most generous, hard-working, and genuine people I’ve ever met.

If you dig the idea of connecting closely with local cultures, enjoy placing yourself in challenging situations, and are willing to look past the lack of western-style amenities, I urge you to give it a try.

I recently had the opportunity to visit a variety community tourism projects in northern Ecuador, each unique in its level of comfort, hospitality, and approach to hosting travelers.  In some places, I felt more welcome and appreciated.  In others, I felt like yet another gringo sitting at the dinner table.  In some, I was clean and comfortable, but felt the scenario was a bit staged and not-so-authentic. In others, I was dirty, uncomfortable, but basking in the connections I made with the locals.  A few tips from what I learned from these community based homestays:

• Authenticity is at odds with luxury.  Not that any of the communities was luxurious, but the more amenities and comfort were available, the less of a connection I was able to make with the locals.  Make your choice of community tourism visits based on what’s most important to you.
• Connections don’t happen just because you show up.  At first, locals may be hesitant to talk to you, as they are unfamiliar with your intentions and puzzled by your presence in their community.  Often, it takes a number of days before people are comfortable approaching you.  It’s up to you to initiate conversation.
• Trust is built quicker when you participate in their lives.  You may not be visiting a community to volunteer your time (or perhaps you are), but nothing builds a bridge like helping with the daily work.  Whether that means helping with meals, working in the fields, or teaching English to kids, do what you can to participate in the lives of the people you’re visiting.  That’s why you’re there, isn’t it?
• Ask lots of questions, but be ready to tell stories.  You may be visiting to learn about the lives and cultures of the host community, but they are just as interested in learning about life from your home country.  Show photos, tell stories, and share customs!

Interested in visiting or volunteering at a community tourism project in Ecuador?  Contact Peter Shear and CASA Interamericana at info@casainteram.org

About the Author: Ted Martens

Ted’s journey into the travel and tourism industry started the summer after a two-month backpacking trip throughout Europe ignited a life-long passion for international travel.  With a master’s degree in Tourism Development, Ted has focused his efforts on helping non-profit Sustainable Travel International promote responsible tourism across the globe as their Director of Outreach & Development. After working too hard for the past 5 years, he is on the road again, escaping the office for some field research… is the responsible travel movement taking seed across the globe, or not?

Of course, there are some variations. Some restaurants offer a choice between 2 or 3 different segundos (perhaps chicken vs beef vs pasta), others will include a small additional entrada (appetizer) and a glass of juice. Sometimes the restaurant will also offer a la carte items as well, but these are never as cheap as the set menu. But some restaurants are open only for lunch, and only offer one option. There is something delicious to be said for buying in bulk, preparing a massive amount of one meal, and offering a smokin deal.

Featured Article: Community-based Tourism is Changing Lives in Rural Ecuador

By Ted Martens

Pucara, Intag River Valley, Ecuador – The Intag River Valley, a gorgeous and lush mountain landscape northwest of Quito, is home to one of the most bio-diverse zones in all of Ecuador (a UNESCO biodiversity “hot-spot” and deemed one of the 10 most bio-diverse ecosystems in the world, due largely to its extreme elevation change – sea level to 11,000 ft in only a couple dozen miles).  In addition to its one-of-a-kind forests, flora, and fauna, the region is also home to a wealth of valuable minerals and ores beneath its surface.  A number of mining enterprises are in pursuit of digging rights, and many locals are tempted by the short-term financial returns promised by these companies.  Without a financially viable alternative, the region is doomed to be exploited and destroyed by the mining industry.

Pucara, a small Intag community of roughly 300 residents, is confronting these challenges with the help of The Inter-American Center for the Arts, Sustainability, and Action (CASA), an NGO committed to helping rural communities realize sustainable economic development opportunities.  CASA Director Peter Shear, an American who has lived in Ecuador for over 12 years, is working closely with the Pucara community to develop viable economic alternatives to combat urban migration and unsustainable resource extraction.

While CASA’s projects span a wide range of economic development initiatives, a core component is community-based and volunteer tourism.  For over 7 years, CASA has been bringing groups of student and young-adult volunteers to the area, working side by side with the locals to build community projects and infrastructure that benefit the residents and the community at large.  Volunteers participate in “mingas”, organized project days where residents come together to work on a particular construction, farming, conservation, or other community-benefiting initiative.  Funding for minga projects comes from local sources, as well as money raised by volunteers prior to their trips.  To date, CASA volunteer tourism projects have included:

• Building homes for residents in need (recipients of the homes were chosen by a community housing board that accepted applications and prioritized based on economic and social factors).
• Construction of a community center for meetings, events, celebrations, weddings, etc.  The center is the largest of its kind in all of Intag, and has turned into a source of revenue for Pucara, as neighboring communities have begun renting it out.  Proceeds from this program now pay for transportation for Pucara students to attend high school in the neighboring community of Apuela (prior to this program, most kids in Pucara did not attend high school due to the prohibitive transportation costs).
• Purchase of land and construction of community organic gardens.
• Purchase of land and construction of community farms.  Some of the poorest residents in town have no land, and were in need of space for subsistence farming.
• Construction of solar hot water showers for community use.
• Construction of soccer field facilities.
• Conservation through land purchasing, reforestation, and preservation.
• Education through organic and agro-ecological farming instruction and testing.
• Construction of community-based tourism facilities, including the Intag Spanish School (which employs 4 local women who otherwise would have little or no income); a trail network through the town and the protected area; and other visitor infrastructure.

This impressive list of projects, while organized and guided by CASA, was driven primarily by community initiation, participation, and democratic decision making.  The result is a community with a much richer set of resources and infrastructure for creating new economic opportunities for local residents.

One of the most lucrative opportunities that has arisen from CASA’s work in Pucara is a well organized community-based tourism infrastructure.  While initially developed primarily for the volunteers, Pucara is now well equipped and actively receiving independent travelers interested in an authentic experience interacting with rural Ecuadorian families and communities.  A rotating homestay program with 20 participating local families allows travelers the chance to live, eat, sleep, and participate in lives of the residents of Pucara for US $10 dollars per night (which includes 3 meals).  The rotating nature of the program ensures an equal distribution to families throughout the community.  The CASA-established Spanish school, the first of its kind in Intag, allows travelers to hone their language skills while supporting local women teachers, all of which are government-certified. Travelers pay US $6 per hour for private lessons.  Of course, there are always volunteer opportunities available, independently or through community mingas.  The Intag River Valley also has a wealth of activities to offer visitors, from guided or independent hikes through protected areas and native cloud forest, to natural hot springs, local markets, and agro-ecological tours.

The Intag Valley (and most of rural Ecuador) is faced with a growing number of challenges in an increasingly globalized economy.  With the majority of the younger working class fleeing traditional farming for greater financial opportunities in urban areas, Intag residents face an uncertain future.  While the proposed mining project would reverse this trend and bring short-term returns to these poor regions (local jobs, mining subsidies, etc), the long-term environmental impacts would be disastrous.  Volunteer and community tourism is one example of a successful alternative sustainable economic development model that is bringing similar benefits to the local population, allowing these communities to preserve their heritage, culture, and environment.

Interested in visiting Pucara and the Intag Valley?  Contact CASA Interamericana Director Peter Shear at info@casainteram.org, 086-849-950 (within Ecuador), www.casainteram.org. 

Ted Martens is STI’s former Director of Outreach. He is taking a yearlong sabbatical to explore the world and indulge his passion for learning about the latest and most innovative developments in sustainable travel. Keep in an eye out for Ted’s latest dispatches from across the globe in future editions of The Responsible Travel Report.

In Peru and Ecuador, they double as a delicacy, a food for special occasions.  We gave them a try – not much meat on them, kinda fatty, not all that great.  But the locals sure do love them!

Among a few different hats that I’m wearing on the road (representative of STI, trip research for AWR, etc), I am contributing bi-monthly to the Responsible Travel Blog of World Nomads, a travel information and insurance provider.

You can find my first contribution, Trashing Ecuador, at this link, or copied below.

Dealing with waste (trash, recycling, composting) is one of the biggest issues that cities and destinations have to deal with in their pursuit of sustainable tourism. Generally speaking, it’s rare to find recycling and composting infrastructure outside of the western world. Imagine my surprise when I saw this image (Otavalo Waste Sorting Photo) walking down the streets of Otavalo, the famous market town north of Quito. Otavalo has composting?!?! Boulder, Colorado – the hyper-enviro-conscious- hippie-haven doesn’t even have city composting pick up – how can these Ecuadorians have a more progressive program than my home town? Well, they do, and it’s not just the businesses. Across town, there are separate garbage cans are labeled “Organico” and “Inorganico”, and city workers follow this dump truck help to sort any misplaced trash.

I mentioned my enthusiasm for the program to a friend who lives in the neighboring community of Cotacachi, and he quickly corrected my misconceptions. “Oh, all that organic waste just goes to the landfill. They separate it, but it gets re-mixed at the dump site.” Really?!? Why go through the trouble (and costs) of separating organic waste if it’s just going to end up in the same place? Apparently, Otavalo used to compost their organic waste. But that was under the old Mayor. The new Mayor doesn’t see the need to pay for a composting program, and so he discontinued it. The sorting infrastructure was kept in place to continue to educate the public, because at some point down the road, they might start composting again (when funds become available).

While the cities are pulling a fast one by their citizens and visitors, there are some inspiring examples of waste management in the Ecuadorian tourism industry. I just finished a short stint at the Black Sheep Inn, an eco-focused accommodation in the Quilotoa region. BSI is famous for their toilets…seriously. There hasn’t been a toilet flushed on the property since they opened their doors in 1996 – they are all composting toilets. It helps that the views from these waterless waste disposals overlooks gorgeous Andean mountains and valleys (View from the toilet). But that’s just the start of their waste management strategy.

BSI is nearly a zero-waste operation – everything consumed on the property is either recycled or reused. Guests are asked to separate their trash into plastics, metals, and paper. All food waste is either fed to the on-site animals (of course there are some black sheep) or composted for the gardens that grow food for the restaurant. Glass bottles are re-used for artwork. Grey (dirty) water is used for irrigation. BSI, in their efforts to benefit the local residents, also funded and built a community recycling center, as well as a recycling pick-up. Andres, co-owner of BSI, is known to the locals as “The King of Trash”.

Otavalo and the Black Sheep Inn have one thing in common when it comes to trash – they are both trying to educate people about the importance of proper waste management. As a responsible traveler, you have the obligation to the destinations you visit to properly deal with the trash you produce. Think about what resources you use during your travels, what you can do to minimize them, and how to properly dispose of the trash you create. Avoid excess water bottles when traveling (bring your own refillable bottle!). When you do drink out of glass or plastic, try to find recycling options, even if that means packing the empty bottle in your pack for the afternoon. Refuse unnecessary plastic bags. Seek out accommodations like BSI who are dealing with your waste responsibly. You get the idea – the less trash you create, the more the destination benefits.

Written by Ted Martens

- – - – - -

Ted’s journey into the travel and tourism industry started the summer after a two-month backpacking trip throughout Europe ignited a life-long passion for international travel.  With a master’s degree in Tourism Development, Ted has focused his efforts on helping non-profit Sustainable Travel International promote responsible tourism across the globe as their Director of Outreach & Development. After working too hard for the past 5 years, he is on the road again, escaping the office for some field research… is the responsible travel movement taking seed across the globe, or not?

In no particular order…

Top 10 Things We Loved
1. Ecuadorian Spanish – The Spanish here is spoken relatively slowly and people seem to enunciate very well. It was great for those of us who were very beginners (Sarah) and for those that were trying to brush up as well (Ted).
2. Overall value – From great accommodations for $20/night to delicious lunches for $5 and cheap, cheap bus rides anywhere you need to go – Ecuador is a steal of a deal.
3. Our time in Pucará - We loved getting off the beaten track, having the opportunity to live with a family and take Spanish lessons. A big thank you to our friend Peter for making it possible.
4. The evening of our homestay in Pijal – The community warmly welcomed us – teaching us how to make their rolls for dinner, sharing sips of sugarcane alcohol with us, and dancing and playing music until it was time to go to bed.
5. Our guide Jose – Jose was very good to us over the 3 days we spent with him – from hiking around lakes that only foreigners like to walk around (his joke), to arranging a mid-hike snack (popcorn and juice) at his mother-in-law´s house in a nearby village, to helping us with our Spanish. Jose was a treat.
6. The Black Sheep Inn – The whole experience. I loved our warm hosts, our amazing accommodations, the friends we met there, the delicious vegetarian meals, the beautiful hike, and the list goes on.
7. Pailón Del Diablo Waterfall (the Devil’s Cauldron) – This amazingly powerful and gigantic waterfall was a 10-12 mile cruisy downhill bike ride from the tourist town of Baños. We didn´t know what to expect but it entirely exceeded our expectations and blew us away.
8. Montañita - Courtney and Jed were warm and welcoming hosts and we got to play on the beach, go surfing and eat a lot of seafood. Si, perfecto!
9. Whale watching – I´m a water girl and I could barely contain myself from jumping in and swimming with the beasts. I couldn´t believe how many we saw and how close we got to them. It was incredible.
10. All the spectacular volcanoes – We knew Quito was at altitude (around 10,000 ft.), but we didn´t know that it was surrounded by so many gigantic volcanoes. We lucked out and finally got to see them on a clear day – some over 20,000 feet!

Top 5 Things That We Didn´t
1. Getting our stuff stolen – Hands down, this was the biggest bummer of our time in Ecuador.
2. Upset stomachs – We each had a bout with it and it isn´t fun. Obviously.
3. A bus ride that Lonely Planet quoted as 8 hours (ugh), taking closer to 10 (double ugh).
4. Wine costs the same as it does at home and beer comes only in the pilsner variety.
5. Adorable puppies. Normally puppies are not a bad thing but when they are roaming the streets and most likely homeless and potentially rabid, you shouldn’t be petting them, and that is just torture.

Top 5 Favorite Foods and Drinks
1. Jugos and batidos! Name an exciting tropical fruit flavor – they´ve got it!
2. Intag coffee – Straight from the source, a community-driven economic success story and delicious.
3. Set-menu almuerzos – Hole-in-the-wall shops serving a multi-course meal for a total of $1.50 to $2.50 per person. It usually came with a delicious soup and the main consisted of some meat (either beef or chicken) with rice and salad. Muy bien!
4. Popcorn – I know this isn´t that exciting but I love popcorn and they serve it everywhere, and it is delicious.
5. Fresh seafood – We ate the majority of our seafood when we were on the coast in Montañita and loved it loved it.

Top 5 Things We Learned/Found Interesting/Found Entertaining
1. There were significantly less tourists around and particularly American tourists than we had thought there would be. No matter what “touristy” things we did (hot springs!, waterfall hikes!, gondola rides to the tops of mountains!), we were always pleased to see significant numbers of Ecuadorians there with their families doing these things along with a couple Germans and maybe some Brits thrown in.
2. Outside of the big cities (and quite a lot IN the big cities as well), nearly every structure – home, shop, school, etc.- is made from cinder blocks. Sometimes they´d get plastered over and/or painted to make them look nicer, but for the most part not-so-much.
3. How prolific and useful knee-high rubber boots can be – from hiking in the rainforest, to working at a minga, to getting the mail.
4. Ecuadors biggest exports are: oil, bananas, flowers and shrimp. In fact, 1/3 of the roses purchased in the U.S. for Valentine´s Day are from Ecuador.
5. It´s perfectly normal for a woman speaking Kichwa (the most widely spoken Indigenous language in the region), clothed in her traditional dress with a baby strapped to her back to be walking down the street on her cell phone.

After 4 weeks of exploring our first South American country, we are officially hooked.  While we’re pleased with the amount of ground we were able to cover, as always when you’re traveling, we discovered more that needs to be done.  We’ll be back for sure – the Galapagos and the Amazon are calling our names.

For a few more highlights of our time here, check out our ‘Best of Ecuador’ photos.

I first met Peter in Colorado in spring, 2008. Among his many different hats, Peter is the in-country director for a volunteer tour operator in Boulder, which brings him through town once a year. After hearing about the community development and tourism projects he´s been orchestrating in rural Ecuador, I knew a visit would be part of our RTW itinerary. It turned out to be way more than just a stop along the way.

Our first two weeks in Ecuador were spent under Peter´s wing, getting the behind-the-scenes stories about the successes and challenges of organizing a wide variety of community-driven economic projects. I was quite literally blown away by all he has accomplished. Have a look:

The Inter-American Center for the Arts, Sustainability, and Action is committed to helping rural communities realize sustainable economic development opportunities (or in non-jargon, helping poor people earn decent livings in ways that are good for their communities and regions). While CASA’s projects span a wide range of economic development initiatives, a core component is community-based and volunteer tourism.  For over 7 years, CASA has been bringing groups of student and young-adult volunteers to the area, working side by side with the locals to build community projects and infrastructure that benefit the residents and the environment.  Volunteers participate in “mingas”, organized project days where residents come together to work on a particular construction, farming, conservation, or other community-benefiting initiative.  Funding for minga projects comes from local sources, as well as money raised by volunteers prior to their trips.  To date, CASA volunteer tourism projects in a single community, Pucara, have included:

• Building homes for residents in need (recipients of the homes were chosen by a community housing board that accepted applications and prioritized based on economic and social factors).

• Construction of a community center for meetings, events, celebrations, weddings, etc.  The center is the largest of its kind in all of the region, and has turned into a source of revenue for Pucara, as neighboring communities have begun renting it out.  Proceeds from this program now pay for transportation for Pucara students to attend high school in the neighboring community of Apuela (prior to this program, most kids in Pucara did not attend high school due to the prohibitive transportation costs).

• Purchase of land and construction of community organic gardens.

• Purchase of land and construction of community farms.  Some of the poorest residents in town have no land, and were in need of space for subsistence farming.

• Construction of solar hot water showers for community use.

• Construction of soccer field facilities.

• Conservation through land purchasing, reforestation, and preservation.

• Education through organic and agro-ecological farming instruction and testing.

This impressive list of projects, while organized and guided by Peter and CASA, was driven primarily by community initiation, participation, and democratic decision making.  The result is a community with a much richer set of resources and infrastructure for creating new economic opportunities for local residents.

One of the most lucrative opportunities that has arisen from CASA’s work in Pucara is a well organized community-based tourism infrastructure, which we had the pleasure of participating in. While initially developed primarily for the volunteers, Pucara is now well equipped and actively receiving independent travelers interested in an authentic experience interacting with rural Ecuadorian families and communities.  A rotating homestay program with 20 participating local families allows travelers the chance to live, eat, sleep, and participate in lives of the residents of Pucara for US$10 dollars per night (which includes 3 meals).  The rotating nature of the program ensures an equal distribution to families throughout the community.  The CASA-established Spanish school, the first of its kind in the region, allows travelers to hone their language skills while supporting local women teachers, all of which are government-certified. Of course, there are always volunteer opportunities available, independently or through community mingas.

Impressive, right? What’s more impressive is that Pucara is only one of 5 communities across the northern Andes that Peter is working with, and each has its own set of projects, resources, accomplishments, challenges, and approach to community tourism (we were able to visit 4 of these communities with Peter).

Peter is very humble about the achievements of CASA, and while he´s pleased with the progress of the communities, in his mind they´ve just begun.  The list of potential projects grows weekly, and there are always bumps in the road to smooth out.  But Peter is excited about what the future holds.  The grand vision is to connect his work in each community through a multi-day community-to-community trek (think of Peru’s Inca Trail leading to Machu Picchu, only instead of camping near ruins, trekkers will stay with families in CASA communities along the route). Starting atop a glaciated volcano near the community of La Chimba, the 12 day trek will lead visitors through native forests, along active volcanoes and around alpine lakes, through the famous market town of Otavalo, and then descend into the cloud forest before culminating at a set of hot springs near Pucara. The Inti Chakinan Trail (or Sun Trail, in the local Kichwa language), as they’ve named it, will be hosting its first through-hiking guests this January. Want to go? I do.

It’s now been well over a month since our time with Peter in northern Ecuador, and one of the most significant lasting impressions is the motivation behind his dedication – the well-being of the people of the CASA communities. Peter’s work is selfless, genuine, and fully engaged with the people in these pueblos. Peter is no longer an outsider, a gringo, to the people of Pucara, Morochos, Peribuela, Pijal and La Chimba. He is an accepted, trusted, and appreciated member of their community. And when you’re visiting rural communities in a foreign culture, there’s nothing like a local to show you around.